Induction elements only work with cookware they can couple to, and they shut themselves down when they get hot. Both behaviours read as faults if you are new to induction.

Knob-controlled cooktops are simpler to diagnose than touch models: an element that runs full-on regardless of the knob is a failed infinite switch, and an element that never heats is either the element or that switch. A cracked glass top should be taken out of service immediately. Isolate the circuit at the breaker, because moisture […]

On a sealed-burner cooktop, a single burner that will not light is usually a blocked port or a dirty igniter, and cleaning solves a good share of those calls. When every igniter clicks together, the spark module or a shorted switch is the likely cause. Flame lifting away from the ports suggests a gas pressure […]

Touch-control cooktops read capacitance through the glass, so water, oil films and even a wet cloth left on the panel cause phantom presses and lockouts. Cleaning and drying the glass resolves a surprising number of these calls. If the panel remains unresponsive when clean and dry, the touch board or its ribbon connection is tested. […]

Five-burner cooktops crowd the surface, so grates and caps must be seated exactly or burners behave badly. After cleaning, check each cap sits flat and each grate foot is in its dimple. Corroded ports can often be cleared with a soft brush and a pin once the cooktop is cold, but never enlarge a port […]

Induction cooktops report a pan-detect fault when cookware is not magnetic, is too small or is warped. Checking the base with a magnet is the fastest way to rule the cookware in or out. Some buzzing at high power is inherent to induction, especially with light multi-ply pans. Overheat codes usually mean airflow under the […]